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Hi HVAC Experts -    I'm an engineering professor/homeowner (read: your worst nightmare customer) with a question.    I have a 2 ton Airtemp through-wall A.C. that is rather old and has an EER I calculated from the plate of 6.5 . The unit came with the ranch _style_ house I live in and is used to cool the middle floor. I've measured its evaporator input - output temperature differential at 20 degrees F while on high cool but the unit seems anemic and hardly changes the indoor temperature. I measured a neighbor's 2 Ton AC with the same house design at 35 degrees F differential and his house is cool. I know central AC units typically have 20 degree differentials, but with my neighbor's wall unit at 35, I was inspired to take my unit out (read: pulled back muscle) and clean the coils with a hose + spray gun. It didn't make much of a difference, but while it was out, I noticed that the fan motor looked like a replacement (sort of smaller than I would have expected, different colored wires spliced to original). I think the poor performance of this unit may be due to the replacement fan motor being inadequate.    Because of extensive rust in the unit's mid-section (due to a clogged tube between the evaporator and condeser trays - now fixed) and the low EER, I went ahead and purchased a new unit (Carrier 30,500 BTU , EER 9.0). I'll be putting that in later this week when my back is better     My question is this: Is it worth keeping the old unit and installing it somewhere else in the house? It would not be run very often, making the low EER less of a big deal than in the middle floor. If so, is it reasonable to have one of you guys put gauges on the thing and see if the low output is due to the compressor not working so well, or rather the fan motor (my theory)? Is 20 degrees really OK for a through-wall unit? I've seen brochures telling homeowners not to expect more than 20 degree between indoors and outdoors, but this is 20 degrees across the evaporator. The unit has copper stubs that look like places one could attach ports for guages and refill, but I don't know if you guys ever bother with small A/Cs like this.     I'd appreciate your comments. It's basically a fix or dispose question. The rust in the mid-section includes the compressor, but I'm not sure if it will get so bad as to leak.     Thanks,     Gill Pratt Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Share what you know. Learn what you don't.

   I'm an engineering professor/homeowner (read: your worst nightmare customer) with a question.    I have a 2 ton Airtemp through-wall A.C. that is rather old and has an EER I calculated from the plate of 6.5 . The unit came with the ranch _style_ house I live in and is used to cool the middle floor. I've measured its evaporator input - output temperature differential at 20 degrees F while on high cool but the unit seems anemic and hardly changes the indoor temperature. I measured a neighbor's 2 Ton AC with the same house design at 35 degrees F differential and his house is cool. I know central AC units typically have 20 degree differentials, but with my neighbor's wall unit at 35, I was inspired to take my unit out (read: pulled back muscle) and clean the coils with a hose + spray gun. It didn't make much of a difference, but while it was out, I noticed that the fan motor looked like a replacement (sort of smaller than I would have expected, different colored wires spliced to original). I think the poor performance of this unit may be due to the replacement fan motor being inadequate.    Because of extensive rust in the unit's mid-section (due to a clogged tube between the evaporator and condeser trays - now fixed) and the low EER, I went ahead and purchased a new unit (Carrier 30,500 BTU , EER 9.0). I'll be putting that in later this week when my back is better     My question is this: Is it worth keeping the old unit and installing it somewhere else in the house? It would not be run very often, making the low EER less of a big deal than in the middle floor. If so, is it reasonable to have one of you guys put gauges on the thing and see if the low output is due to the compressor not working so well, or rather the fan motor (my theory)? Is 20 degrees really OK for a through-wall unit? I've seen brochures telling homeowners not to expect more than 20 degree between indoors and outdoors, but this is 20 degrees across the evaporator. The unit has copper stubs that look like places one could attach ports for guages and refill, but I don't know if you guys ever bother with small A/Cs like this.     I'd appreciate your comments. It's basically a fix or dispose question. The rust in the mid-section includes the compressor, but I'm not sure if it will get so bad as to leak.     Thanks,     Gill Pratt this is turtle. i have read what you have said here and have not been told anything that would leed me to believe that there is anything wrong with the window unit. now my first question to you is did it do a good job last summer all year long ?   if so there could be a small problem with the thermostat , such as thermostat bulb touching the coil and turning it off too soon. thing such as this.  now operationly speaking i don't see a problem. TURTLE if you want to discuss  e-mail me.

Hi HVAC Experts -   I'm an engineering professor/homeowner (read: your worst nightmare customer) with a question.   I have a 2 ton Airtemp through-wall A.C. that is rather old and has an EER I calculated from the plate of 6.5 . The unit came with the ranch _style_ house I live in and is used to cool the middle floor. I've measured its evaporator input - output temperature differential at 20 degrees F while on high cool but the unit seems anemic and hardly changes the indoor temperature. I measured a neighbor's 2 Ton AC with the same house design at 35 degrees F differential and his house is cool. The unit has copper stubs that look like places one could attach ports for guages and refill, but I don't know if you guys ever bother with small A/Cs like this. Not currently being in the business but, from what you describe, I sincerely doubt it's worth a service call. If you need another AC unit, get a new one. This unit sounds like it needs a lot of work just to find out what condition it is in. And any honest AC pro is probably going to charge more than you would like. They have a lot of expenses to cover that are not visible to the average consumer. gerry ....... * It is hard to fit reason into a narrow mind * NO_SPAM added to my email address to confuse robots

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